Tag Archives: shop

Shop, Reloaded! – Stay tuned for woodshop upgrades!

By   11 Oct 2015

Double the Shop Space…

Well folks, it’s been a crazy six months since we moved to our new digs, but we are finally back to being a “fully armed and operational” woodshop.  While it is WONDERFUL to have the additional square footage in the shop, let me walk you through some of the growing pains that seem to always accompany such a move:

  • No power.  Seriously.  More than sufficient power and breakers available at the panel for the entire shop space… only one outlet.  Count ’em, baby.  ONE.  And it’s by the door, because that’s where we do our woodworking.  By the door.
    • 36 outlets on 4 circuits added.
  • Two 4-foot, 2-bulb T8 fluorescent light fixtures, located right above same said door.  Just two.
    • 12 more banks of T8 fixtures added.
  • 4″ dust collection piping installed around the shop perimeter.
  • Pressurized air lines installed around the shop perimeter.
  • Slat wall system installed around the shop.
  • Cabinets, shelving and racks built, for said slat walls.
  • Flooring system installed for comfort, safety and ease of clean-up & maintenance.
  • New, massive, righteous fence system installed on the main table saw.

And that was all over and above the pains of moving in the tables and equipment, while simultaneously building a few custom orders for customers.  Sound like fun?  Whew!!

Not our shop, but the right idea!

Not our shop, but the right idea!

Double the Shop Fun!

We also have several other upgrade projects in the works, including:

  • Dust collector upgrade;
  • Shop insulation and air conditioning upgrade;
  • Drill press upgrade;
  • Band saw upgrade;
  • Addition of a CNC machine.

Lastly, we have customer projects stacked up 6 deep in the planning office, so we have awesome work pieces on their way.

As you can see, we have a lot of things going on at Doobly-Do Wood Works, so check back often or follow us on social media to stay abreast of the shop improvements and customer projects.


Mike @ Doobly-Do Wood Works




By   10 Mar 2015

     That’s right, we are moving.  Or, moved.  Or, have moved.  Or, will move?  I don’t know which is most appropriate, but you get the idea.  The Doobly-Do Crew are pulling up stakes and moving about 5 miles down the road to a new address and a new shop with double the space.  We are excited to get operating again in the new digs, so keep checking up on us and we will keep you posted.  And as always, thank you for your support!

Snipe Hunting – Your Planer and You

By   26 Jun 2014

     The good news is that technology and free market capitalism have brought small thickness planers into home-shop affordability.  The bad news is that without the 5-digit price tag, 24-inch wide planning capacity or 3-foot infeed and outfeed beds of an industrial production planer, there’s a lot of things to keep in mind with these inexpensive marvels.  The typical hobbyist thickness planer is 12 to 13 inches wide and can handle stock up to several inches thick, which is darn respectable.  But the most common problem with small thickness planers is, of course, snipe.


Planer Snipe

Snipe is the defect left at the initial and departure ends of the stock from over-planing.

 The Fault

     Snipe is the defect left on a piece where the initial and departure ends of the board are over-planed for the first and last few inches of length than the rest of the board in the middle.  This is caused by insufficient support on the board during infeed and outfeed because of the anorexic in-and-out feed tables on most portable planers.  The workpiece doesn’t enter the machine level and steady; the far end (away from the planer) droops, rocking the end in the planer up off the bed slightly and into the cutter head, until the end in the machine gets to the second set of feed rollers.  Then, the two rollers on either side of the cutter head manage to keep the workpiece flat and true in the machine.

Planer Snipe

Snipe happens when the stock comes up off the table before it gets to the 2nd set of feed rollers

The Snipe Fixes

     There are three simple fixes for snipe.  One, mill the board longer than finish to account for the fact that you will lose several inches from both ends to cut the snipe off… not necessarily cost effective when using expensive exotic lumbers.  Two, if you have the real estate available in your shop, build long, sturdy infeed and outfeed tables precisely at the height of the planer’s bed.  Three, use the “hold the end up” technique when feeding and catching stock through the planer.

Feed Tables

Long feed tables are ideal, but space hungry.

     The easiest, least costly and least space consuming is option three.  The technique is to put a slight amount of upward pressure on the far end of the stock, forcing the infeed end down against the planer bed.  This is held until you feel the second set of feed rollers (the one’s on the opposite side of the cutter head) grab the stock.  The technique is repeated in reverse on the exit side of the planer as well.


Mike @ Doobly-Do Wood Works

Free Woodworking Content

By   31 Mar 2014

If you like the free woodworking content Doobly-Do Wood Works (DDWW) is offering in our articles, our project videos on YouTube and our photo gallery, why not share what you’ve found with your friends and family across the social media networks?

DDWW has a social media presence on Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn and Google+, as well as a YouTube channel for our woodshop videos.  Also, visit our website at www.dooblydo.com and feel free to post comments on the articles and other content you see there.

Doobly-Do Wood Works is a staunch supporter of free woodworking content across the internet, both by the content we provide and those of our favorite fellows across the saw-dusty spectrum.  There is an incredible amount of talent out there offering their activities for your entertainment consumption at a price you can afford… free!  And every Like, Tweet, Follow, +1, View and Subscribe helps keep the woodworkers working.  Thanks!


Mike @ Doobly-Do Wood Works

The Most Boring Post in the World – Sanding.

By   24 Mar 2014

Yep, I’m going to spend just a few moments discussing the martial art of sanding.  Change channels now if you like, I understand.  Still here?  Okay then, let’s talk about how to get better results and minimize the amount of elbow grease involved.


The most common error is over-sanding.  To get a feel of how much is just right, practice on a piece of scrap by taking a pencil and making a serpentine pattern down the face.  Then, for the chosen grit, sand the piece until the graphite is gone… that’s “just right”.  You’ll get a feel for how long that particular grit takes to abrade the appropriate amount of the top surface of the wood away.  Then repeat this practice session with each grit you regularly use.

Plywood and anything with a veneer on it is especially tricky.  If you are new to woodworking, I highly suggest taking a bit of scrap plywood and sanding through the face veneer on a portion.  Do this to learn, by feel, just how easy it is to ruin your work piece.  When sanding on a veneer, or on a hardwood piece adjacent to a veneered piece, extra attention must be paid to not penetrating said veneer.  In our production woodshop, we avoid sanding on plywood-thickness veneers with anything less than 180 grit.  And even then, it’s just a light clean up pass on the veneer.  Obviously, if you’ve veneered something with a much thicker material, you can be more aggressive with your sanding; use judgment.

Grit vs. Finish

Secondly, what grit you sand a work piece to is controlled by the type of finish you are going to use (again, most tend to sand more than necessary).  For example, lacquers, paints and urethanes build up a surface on top of the surface of the wood.  The wood grain will not be felt when touched because the paint or lacquer builds up a “plastic”-like film over the wood.  Only large imperfections will pronounce through the covering.  Therefore, sanding up to 120 grit is usually sufficient to knock down any big-enough imperfections to get a nice, smooth finish with paints, urethanes and lacquers (Oh My!).

Stains, oils and varnishes, however, actually ‘soak’ into the wood, and become part of the wood fibers themselves.  The wood grain and texture will be felt, so, much more detailed sanding must be performed to remove smaller imperfects, including those that may not be visible but can be felt by the sensitive finger.  Therefore, a sanding progression up through 220 grit (in most cases) and perhaps even 320 grit (in some special instances) will get you that fine finish you desire.

The Right Tool

Also, don’t forget that sometimes the best way to sand an imperfection out of a work piece is not to sand at all.  Don’t overlook using a rasp, a file, a chisel, a scraper, a flush trim saw, a rotary tool, an eraser, a fingernail… you can almost always find a tool to remove an imperfection that is the right size and fit without having to sand an entire area just to get the thing that was mucking up your piece.

When using any kind of power sander, the speed at which you move the sander over the piece will affect its efficiency.  The secret here is, “Let the sander do the work.”  A good rule of thumb is about 1″ per second.  You’ll see most people frantically whipping that sander around on the work piece; this technique is considerably slower, but it is not so slow as to make the work take absolutely forever.  Steady movement is key to good results.  Also, resist the urge to: 1) press harder than an ordinary arm resting (listen to the motor; if it’s bogging down at all, you are pressing too hard), and; 2) tilt the sander on a side or corner to “get that little spot right there.”  Keep the sander fully flat on it’s entire sanding surface.  Heat is the sandpaper’s worst enemy; cool paper sands much more efficiently and last much longer.  Remember that when thinking about pressure, speed and tilt with your power sander.

Quality vs. Cost

Last thing I’ll bore you with is the quality of your sandpaper.  Believe me, less is not more when it comes to the price of your sandpaper.  Economy sandpaper seems like a better deal because you get more sheets and less cost… up front.  But, cheap paper handles heat poorly, clogs more frequently and loses abrasiveness much more quickly… noticeably so over the long run.  Premium paper last longer, often multiple times longer than the ‘inexpensive’ stuff, and abrades much cleaner, cooler and usually with better results.  You will actually save money investing in premium sandpaper because you will use less sheets over time, and so much so that the premium paper is more economical.  I know… its not intuitive.

See our latest video on YouTube:  The Hamill Serving Cart

Mike @ Doobly-Do Wood Works